Monday, May 25, 2009

May 20 - Mexican Chocolate Tofu Pudding

Confession: I am removing my previous (bad) review of this recipe because I realized that I made the mistake of using regular, and not silken tofu. A friend with lots of vegan cooking experience queued me into my mistake. I will make the recipe soon using silken tofu and post a new review. In the meantime, please re-watch some great videos from Kitchen 4B (Jill Santopietro is so cute!).

Mexican Chocolate Tofu Pudding
3/4 cup sugar
1 pound silken tofu
8 ounces high-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon chili powder, or more to taste
Chocolate shavings (optional)

1. In a small pot, combine sugar with 3/4 cup water; bring to a boil and cook until sugar is dissolved, stirring occasionally. Cool slightly.

2. Put all ingredients except for chocolate shavings in a blender and purée until completely smooth, stopping machine to scrape down its sides if necessary. Divide among 4 to 6 ramekins and chill for at least 30 minutes. If you like, garnish with chocolate shavings before serving.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

May 13 - Asparagus with Morels and Tarragon

It’s been a week since I made Bittman’s Asparagus with Morels and Tarragon, and the very thought of the dish still makes me salivate. It was that good -- combining wonderful spring flavors with year-round fatty comforts!

As soon as I saw the recipe, I thought it had real potential. I love crisp spring asparagus, and I still long for the early summer childhood days when we’d go morel hunting in the woods near my grandma’s house. We spend a few afternoon hours hunting for them, usually finding them at the bases of big trees that were growing in a shady clump. We’d gently place them in small cloth bags that were probably just flour sacs that my grandma had stitched up for the purpose. My grandma would clean off our sac of morels and sauté them whole in a pan with some margarine. (Confession: I come from poor-to-working-class Midwestern roots, and I don’t think I understood the superiority of butter to margarine for most needs until my mid-20s. But I still use a 50-50 mix of butter and Crisco in my cookies to achieve the perfect combination of crunch and chew.) We’d eat them right out of the pan with a side of toasted sandwich bread…yum!

It’s only now, when I see morels at the farmers market priced at an arm & a leg per ounce, that I realize how lucky I was back then. But with this little project, I had an excuse to splurge and re-create a memory…although my hunt here involved nothing more than asking the Harris Teeter produce man to point me in direction of the dried morels.

I found the precious 1 oz bag ($10!) located below the display of fresh mangos and proceeded to rounded up the other ingredients:

1/4 to 1/2 ounce dried morels or porcinis, or a combination
1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) butter
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1 pound fresh shiitake or white button mushrooms or a combination, cleaned, trimmed and sliced
1 to 1 1/2 pounds asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1 1/2 -inch lengths
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
Salt and pepper to taste


Needless to say, at $10 for one ounce, I cut back a bit on the suggested amount of morels. Mark had said you could make this dish with as little as 6 morels and still have a wonderful flavor. I used about half the package (or 1/8 of an ounce), which was about 12 small-to-medium dried morels. I decided I didn’t want to other strong mushroom flavors to invade the morels space, so I just used morels and fresh white button mushrooms.

1. Put morels, porcinis or both in a bowl with very hot water to cover; soak until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain morels and reserve soaking liquid. Cut morels in half; if porcinis are large, chop them roughly.


While the morels were soaking, I started a pot of quick-cooking barley. I figured it would bulk up this side dish into a main course while soaking up any remaining creamy-mushroomy sauce.

2. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat; when butter is hot and foam has subsided, add shallots and reconstituted and fresh mushrooms to pan. Cook until shallots soften and fresh mushrooms have released their liquid and it has cooked off, about 10 minutes.

This step went off exactly as described. At first it seemed like the mushroom liquid would only increase and never cook off. But in the last minute or so, it started looking like mushrooms and shallots in a slightly greased pan.

3. Add asparagus and 1/2 cup reserved liquid to pan. Bring liquid to a boil, cover, reduce heat so mixture simmers, and continue cooking for another 2 to 4 minutes, or until asparagus is crisp-tender. Add cream and tarragon or chervil and continue cooking, uncovered, until sauce thickens slightly and asparagus is tender, about 4 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

After the first 4 minutes, the asparagus was still pretty tough – 1/2 cup liquid wasn’t really enough to get a good steam. But 4 minutes after adding the cream, it was bright green and gave to a fork with a bit of pressure. I wanted the morel and asparagus flavors to shine through the creamy sauce, so I only added a bit of salt and pepper and then spooned it over a thin layer of barley. It looked and smelled wonderful!



And it tasted even better! The mushroom flavor shone again the fatty, delicate sauce and the asparagus provided just the right amount of crunch...and the barley at the bottom of the bowl made sure none of that goodness when to waste. It was all I could do not to go out and buy another bunch of asparagus the next day, so I could make it again. (Thank goodness for book club and Neeta’s yummy pasta and brownies!) While the prohibitive price of morels will keep this recipe from becoming a weekly occurrence, I’ll definitely bring it out every May, when asparagus is in season and morel-hunting memories abound!

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

May 6 - Chicken Livers With Caramelized Onions and Mushrooms

This week, Bittman was attempting to talk about the efficiency of freezing food. It was a good reminder for me, since I’m not a big fan of eating leftovers the next day. However, I realized that could be better about making extra servings and freezing them for a lunch next week, instead of bringing a frozen, pre-packaged diet entrée. I also realized that I was already following some of Bittman’s advice. In the past few months, I’ve been better about saving unused ingredients – in my freezer, you’ll find cups of frozen chicken broth made from the remains of a roast chicken and a container of shrimp heads that I can use for stock in the future.

By the end of the article I expected to find a couple recipes for things that would freeze well for the future. But no, except for one frozen cookie dough recipe (a trick I’ve used for quite a while), the other recipes used ingredients you might already randomly have lurking in your freezer…like frozen beans or egg whites or livers. Really? I have frozen beans, but the reason I freeze them is that it’s really easy to crock pot a 1 lb. bag of beans and I already have a bunch of recipes that call for beans. I don’t need more recipes for using beans. So I went back to one of my original goals for this project, using an ingredient I’ve never used before – chicken livers.

Besides the occasional pate, I don’t think I’ve ever had liver, much less prepared it. I’ve never actively avoided liver, but I’ve never sought it out either. So I headed to grocery store and looked for chicken livers. I was directed to the freezer in the butcher area, where I found a 1 lb. container for only $1.99! This is probably the cheapest meat that Bittman has ever directed us towards. As for the rest of the ingredients, they were easy:


2 medium onions, cut in two and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or butter, more as needed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 sprig fresh rosemary, finely chopped
1 cup button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and sliced
4 uncooked chicken livers
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or other, or more to taste
Crusty bread or toast for serving


I prepped the onions and alternated cooking and prep work for the rest of the recipe, following the directions as given.

1. Put onions in a large skillet over medium heat. Cover and cook, stirring infrequently, until onions are dry and almost sticking to pan, about 20 minutes.

2. Stir in a tablespoon of oil or butter and a large pinch of salt and a few grindings of black pepper, add rosemary and turn heat down to medium-low. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms release their liquid and it evaporates, about 15 minutes more. Remove vegetables from pan; set aside.

3. Wipe pan with a paper towel, put it over medium-high heat and add remaining oil or butter. When oil is hot or foam from butter has subsided, add chicken livers. Keep heat high and cook livers quickly, turning them until brown and crisp on both sides but still pink on inside, about 3 or 4 minutes total. Remove from pan.

4. Return vegetables to pan along with vinegar and 2 or 3 tablespoons water, just enough to deglaze; stir well to combine and serve with livers and crusty bread, or on toast.


I was able to follow these steps without problems. I had a nice dinner plate, with a side of sautéed spinach and the suggested crusty wheat bread. But I can’t show you the final product, because I forgot to take a picture. What can I say except it was long day and I was thinking about making the start of the Biggest Loser finale (how did I allow myself to fall into that 3 hour time suck????).

So you'll have to take my word for it -- ended up with a nice dinner. I can’t say that chicken livers are my new favorite protein, but they were nice and creamy with a distinct flavor. I’d definitely make them again…and I probably will be since I have about 2/3 lb. of livers remaining, which are now in my freezer for future use. So in the end, I guess I did have some new frozen ingredients courtesy of Mark.

April 29 - Zuppa Arcidossana

I'll just admit it up front: I did not want to make this dish. Watery soup at the beginning of summer didn't hold much appeal for me. But after seeing the trailer for Julie & Julia at the theater this weekend (can't wait to see it!), the husband said "I'm sure there were things in Julia's cookbook that Julie didn't want to make, but she did, right?" I couldn't argue with that -- Julie made the aspic...many times over. And I didn't think Zuppa Arcidossana would be anywhere near as bad as aspic, so I sucked it up and made this for dinner last night.

The ingredients were easy:

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 pound sweet Italian sausage, removed from casings
1 cup 1/2-inch-diced carrots
1 large onion, chopped
3 or 4 cloves garlic, chopped
Salt and black pepper
1 cup stale bread (use coarse, country-style bread), cut in 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 pound spinach, trimmed, washed and roughly chopped
1/4 to 1/2 cup ricotta salata, cut in 1/2-inch cubes (feta may be substituted)
1/4 cup freshly chopped parsley, optional


I made two modifications. Harris Teeter had only 1/2 pound blocks of ricotta salata, but they had smaller blocks of feta, so I got that. (Sorry Teeter, but you’re no Whole Foods. I don’t think you can really call it a full service gourmet cheese section if you won’t cut the prepackaged cheese into smaller chunks.) And I did not pre-plan to have some stale bread, so I just got regular bread and popped the chunks into the broiler for a few minutes while I got on with the cooking.

1. Put oil in a large pot or deep skillet and brown sausage over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally. When sausage is cooked through and leaving brown bits in pan, add carrots, onion and garlic, and continue to cook until vegetables begin to soften and brown, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Very simple. I used my handy cast iron skillet and got some nice “brown bits.”

2. Add bread to pan and stir for a minute or 2; add spinach and continue cooking just until it wilts, a couple of minutes.

Self explanatory, although I only stirred the bread for about 60 seconds. I figured that staling-by-broiler was the equivalent to 1 minute of pan browning.

3. Add about 2 cups water and stir to loosen any remaining brown bits from pan. This is more of a stew than a soup, but there should be some broth, so add another cup of water if necessary. When broth is consistency of thin gravy, ladle stew into serving bowls and top with cheese and some freshly chopped parsley if you have it. Serve immediately.

I never got a thin “gravy” – just more of a slightly discolored water in the bottom of the pan. But good smells were coming from the pan and the colors were bright and fresh, so I was cautiously optimistic. I skipped the fresh parsley, thinking there was already enough color in the dish. Here’s the final product:



I'll close with another admission: I was pleasantly surprised by this dish. I was right about not finding much appealing in the watery soup part, but the textures and flavors of the non-watery parts were really good. Bittman is right that this is a combo that only a Tuscan could create. If I make it again, I'd make some modifications (use less liquid and/or use a wine or stock instead of plain water), but overall, it was much better than I expected. That’ll teach me to be a doubter...but please don't give me an aspic assignment next week.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

April 22 – Curried Flatbread

I’ve only been doing this Bittman project for one month, and I can't believe I’m already behind.... I don’t really have a good excuse - this flatbread recipe was VERY easy, but there just wasn’t a time in the past week and a half when I was cooking and had an hour to let it bake in the oven. Well, tonight my husband wanted to make a very simple spinach-chick pea curry dish that we like. We usually have a bit of pita on the side, but I realized that the curried flatbread would be a nice stand-in…and it was a Sunday, so there was no excuse about the baking time.

I did not make the “fancy” Curried Cauliflower Flatbread that Bittman featured in the Finessing Flatbread article. My husband is not a big fan of cauliflower, and we already had quite a few veggies in the main dish. So I decided to make the simple flatbread that was described at the beginning of the article:

1 cup whole wheat flour
about 1 1/4 cups water
a large pinch of salt


After preheating the oven to 400 degrees and getting out the mixing bowl, I realized we only had about a tablespoon of whole wheat flour left. While I had an hour to cook the bread, I didn't have extra time to run to the grocery store for whole wheat flour and still have dinner at a decent hour. So I liberally applied his advice about about mixing up the flour base and used a 50-50 mix of all purpose flour and cornmeal. I also added about a teaspoon of curry powder to the batter as well, keeping with the theme of our main dish. I then just mixed everything together into a thin batter.

I added a couple of tablespoons of oil olive to my large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil was hot, I followed a modification from the Bitten blog and added about a 1/3 cup of diced onions and let them fry up a bit. I then poured the batter on top of the onions and oil. There was a bit of a problem here, because the batter just pushed all the onions to the edge. I didn’t want to disturb the oil layer underneath and risk the flatbread sticking to the pan, so I just let it be. I then put the skillet in the oven and got on with our main dish. After 45 minutes, the flatbread was a light brown with nice crispy edges. I removed it and let it rest. Here’s what it looked like:



When I went to take it out of the pan, I found problem number 2 – the bread was stuck to the skillet in a few spots. I realized that I should have added more oil to the pan to compensate for the oil that the onions soaked up. I'll just have to remember that for next time. I just scraped between the bread and the pan with a spatula and it released...for the most part (about 2 silver dollar size pieces still stuck to the pan). I cut the circle of bread into 8 wedges and served it with our veggie curry.

It was a big success! The bread itself had a nice texture, the curry powder made it a great complement to our main course, and the crispy onion border was an added treat. It certainly beat out our usual pita side dish. I will definitely make this flatbread again, perhaps even trying the “fancy” roasted vegetable variation.